Valley of 10,000 Haystacks

Our main goal in this area is to visit Big Hole National Battlefield and hopefully catch sight of some of the famous haystacks. Given it’s known as the “Valley of 10,000 Haystacks”, we’ll surely see some.

Indian Tree Campground

We make camp at the Indian Trees Campground just south of Sula, Montana. It’s very small, extremely quiet, and the site offers a lot of privacy. So much so, that at night we leave the windows wide open and the blinds up for the first time since owning the camper.

The campground was named after the many scarred Ponderosa Pine trees in the area. Between 1835 and 1890 a few Native American tribes would make their way to this area in the spring when the tree sap was running. While here, they would peel away the outer bark of the thees to get to the sweet, chewy layer to use for food.

Big Hole National Battlefield

The park service describes this site “as a memorial to the people who fought and died here on August 9 and 10, 1877.”

Visitor Center

Immediately upon entering the Visitor Center we see a ranger who looks very familiar. After chatting with him for a while, we realize we attended a presentation he did on surveying during the Astronomy festival in Great Basin NP last year. It truly is a small world.

He recommends we view the movie prior to venturing out to walk the trails leading to the historic sites, so we do.

Movie

He was right! The short film is told from Native perspective and tells the story of the Nez Perce. With legends dating back 9,000 years, at one time they were one of the biggest tribes in the US covering what is now Idaho, Montana, Oregon, and Washington. It was here, this once great tribe nearly met it’s end.

Observation Deck

As we exit the Visitor Center we head out to the Observation Deck to view the landscape of this conflict. As we’re standing here another Ranger comes out to inquire what we think. Our response did not come easy and I eventually just said what we were both thinking… “It’s hard to reconcile a battle so violent and bloody taking place in this quiet, serene landscape.” His response… “Well said!”

It’s now time to head down to the trails and see the historic sites to learn more about this conflict.

Trails

At the beginning of each trail we find a box with guides which request visitors to “walk both trails and use this booklet to gain and understanding of the events of the Battle of the Big Hole, and the disparate worlds inhabited by Nez Perce and the US Army Soldiers.”

Siege Area Trail

Told from the soldiers perspective, this trail follows their movements in the middle and closing portions of the conflict.

Howitzer Capture Trail

We decide to go up the Howitzer Capture Trail first which involves a steep incline through the trees.

From here, we can see the entire conflict area, as well as a long way beyond.

Siege Area Trail

Next, we walk the loop around the siege area. The loop is not large and seems so unassuming; but the booklet and information boards along the way tell a completely different story.

Battlefield Overlook Trail

The battlefield overlook is a short walk off the siege trail; but is definitely worth doing.

It’s now time to head to the other trail and see where this conflict began.

Nez Perce Camp Trail

This trail helps visitors visualize the opening Battle of the Big Hole and provides the Nez Perce perspective of the conflict.

Be warned, this portion of the trail is very open to the elements and if you truly read the booklet it will also be very emotional.

Wisdom, MT

After visiting Big Hole NB, we head to the town of Wisdom for lunch and to see the haystacks.

The town is extremely small; but does offer it’s own charm. However lunch was just Ok, and we didn’t get to see any of the haystacks this area is known for.

Lost Trail Pass

On the way back, we stop at the Lost Trail Pass rest area for a look around. It’s located right on the boarder of Idaho and Montana, and it’s here we learn that it was named in 1935, in recognition of the fact that experts disagree on the direction the Lewis & Clark expedition took over this divide.

Lost Trail Pass is also a very popular ski area and some of the trails can be seen on the mountain in the picture above.

Heading back to camp

After leaving Lost Trail Pass, we head back to camp. Along the way we decide to stop at a few pullouts to take some pictures.

What a great place to spend a few days.

Next stop… Flathead Lake State Park