Curecanti National Recreation Area

Created in the 1960’s by the construction of three dams on the Gunnison River to provide irrigation and hydroelectric power, this recreation area is now a destination for outdoor enthusiasts. It offers a multitude of water activities as well as hiking, scenic driving, and wildlife viewing.

Unfortunately, we’re here while there’s a major wildfire burning 25 – 30 miles southwest of our location. So, the smoke is thick at times and we’re having to plan our activities based on where the wind is blowing the smoke.

Elk Creek Campground

Located on the shore of Blue Mesa Reservoir just down from the Visitor Center, this large campground offers 4 different loops with varying amenities.

As we’re setting up the air quality is ok, but shortly before dinner as we’re taking a walk we begin to see the smoke rolling in over the reservoir.

So, we close up the camper and have dinner while the smoke gets worse and worse. After a few hours, the winds shift and the sky begins to clear giving us an incredible sunset. Ironically, my photo manages to capture a piece of ash floating in the air.

Crystal Reservoir

After a very peaceful night’s sleep, we decide to head to the western section of the park. The fire spread further north overnight closing everything south of the road to access this section and the winds are blowing northeast this morning. Which means, we should be able to avoid the smoke and if the fire keeps spreading, this may be our only chance to see this section of the park.

Driving here we were beginning to think we’d made a complete error in judgement as the smoke was quite heavy but as we got closer, we dropped slightly in elevation and the smoke was above us leaving the air around us very comfortable.

Morrow Point Dam

Our first stop at the trailhead is the Morrow Point Dam overlook. Not only do we get a great view of the dam and the Crystal Reservoir we’re about to walk along but there are several information boards about the dam itself.

Mesa Creek Trail

Heading down from the viewpoint we wind along the trail across the bridge and then up the riverbank. As we progress, the narrowness of the Black Canyon with it’s vertical walls is on full display. The water is very clear and the scenery is beautiful.

On the way back we get a good view of the trail and the canyon toward the dam.

Climbing back up the hill to the overlook and the Jeep we get an incredible view of the Cimarron River flowing into the reservoir.

Cimarron Rail Exhibit

Next, we head south toward the Cimarron Campground and Picnic area to investigate the rail exhibit and have lunch.

The rail exhibit can be found in two sections. The first is the last remaining trestle bridge along the Black Canyon route and the second is just past the campground at the old ranger stations and picnic area. The trestle bridge normally has Locomotive #278 and a few rail cars on it but they were missing today. We didn’t see them at all until we caught a brief view of them well east of the picnic area as we were driving away from the area.

Reading the information boards, we learn that the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad used a narrow gauge (3-foot) track here in the mountains because they it could more easily negotiate turns around mountains, canyons, and cliffs. The standard gauge throughout the country was 4 feet 8 1/2 inches. Although using the narrow gauge opened trade routes across Colorado, it was a scary and unsettling experience for passengers.

As we’re heading to the picnic area for lunch we catch sight of a bee on some bright Musk Thistle.

Pine Creek Trail

On the way back to camp, we decide to stop at the Pine Creek Trail. It’s also at a lower elevation and we were hoping our luck would hold and the smoke would be well above the trail. Alas, we are out of luck. So, we bring out our face coverings to keep the smoke and ash out of our lungs and head part way down the trail to get a look at the reservoir.

Trail views

Canyon Views

Once we reach the bottom of the stairs, we’re walking along the path of the old narrow-gauge railway. Looking at it now it’s hard to believe this trail was once well above the Gunnison River. 

Elk Creek Visitor Center

Arriving back at Elk Creek we decide to stop in at the Visitor Center as we pass by. It’s small but we are able to get our passport stamp and they have a really cool exhibit that shows what the area looked like before and after the dams were built. This exhibit alone was worth stopping.

Blue Mesa Reservoir

According to the smoke forecast, we’ll have good air between 9 am & 2pm today. So, we head out shortly after 9am to do a hike and explore the north side of the Morrow Point Reservoir.

Dillon Pinnacles Trail

Our chosen trail is the 3.8 mile 595-foot elevation Dillon Pinnacles Trail. The trail gives a great view of Middle Bridge, Dillon Pinnacles, and Blue Mesa Reservoir. It also has some information boards along the way. The views from the trail are incredible and they must be absolutely stunning without the smokey haze in the air.

The trail itself has ups and downs making it a good workout but the surface is relatively even making it a great trail to be able to look at the scenery instead of your feet.

After the hike we head west across the Blue Mesa Dam and stop at a few overlooks beyond.

Blue Mesa Dam

On the north side of the dam there is a pullout with information boards about the dam. It’s a great place to get out and take pictures, just make sure you watch out for traffic.

Morrow Point Reservoir

Just west of the Blue Mesa Dam is where Morrow Point Reservoir Begins. We’ll follow the northern road a good way up stopping at overlooks along the way.

Blue Mesa Dam Overlook

At this spot we can see the dam (picture included above) and the Pine Creek Trail we did yesterday afternoon. If you look carefully, you can see the trailhead (on top of the hill), the stairs going down to the river, and the old narrow-gauge railway turned trail that runs along the Morrow Point Reservoir / Gunnison River.

Pioneer Point

Pioneer Point is a spot not to be missed in the park. Two creeks meet the Gunnison River almost directly across from each other and it’s also the site of the Curecanti Needle. There are three overlooks at this spot all highlighting different views.

Overlook# 1 – Curecanti Creek

Looking north from Pioneer Point, we can see Curecanti Creek flowing down from the north. As we look closer, we find several small waterfalls along the bottom of the creek.

Overlook #2 – Curecanti Needle

Here we learn that the needle was not pushed up from the canyon but was slowly cut by a geologic fault and two rivers. Can you see the triangular rock that almost looks like an island in the middle of the picture below?

Overlook# 3 – Blue Creek, Gunnison River, and beyond

Pine Creek Boat Launch Overlook

On the way back to camp, we stop at a random pullout and find the Pine Creek Boat Launch directly below us. We would have seen this up close yesterday along the Pine Creek Trail if the smoke had held off a little longer.

Hermits Rest

On the way to our next destination, we travel this road again and stop at a random pullout just before Hermits Rest. The sky is very clear today and the colors in the canyon are popping.

Once we reach Hermits Rest, we stop for a while and chat with some locals while taking in the incredible view of Morrow Point Reservoir and beyond.

As we’re trying to identify all the mountains, we realize that quite a few of them are obscured by smoke.

Dogging the smoke was a challenge but we managed to do everything we wanted in the area. Thank you “Windy” for adding a CO concentration layer to your maps.

Next stop… Black Canyon of the Gunnison-North Rim