Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park

Unexpectedly, there’s snow in the forecast during our planned time here. So, we decide to arrive a day early and will only stay two nights, instead of the planned three. This will ensure we can reach a lower elevation prior to the snow blowing in.

Campground

When checking in at the park office, the very nice Ranger let us know that the site we’d picked is very uneven. He suggests a different site for us that will be easier to level the camper, as well as have a small cell signal, and a fantastic sunset view.

He didn’t lead us wrong about the site we’d selected (#7). It was very uneven with a significant slope that would have made leveling very challenging. And, the site he directed us to is everything he told us it would be.

The views from our evening walk around the campground are a delight to the senses. Being 7,000 feet up in elevation and nestled on the western slope of the Shoshone mountain range, the air is fresh, crisp, and the sounds we hear are completely natural. The wind gently whistling through the trees, ground animals foraging for their dinner, and birds calling to each other.

And then… two fighter jets from one of the nearby military bases go screaming overhead. But, once their gone, we’re back to 100% nature. Pure bliss!

Sunset

The promised sunset from this campsite also does not disappoint.

Ghost Towns

After a good night’s sleep, we’re up and on the bikes, exploring the old Ghost Towns located in the park (i.e. the Berlin portion of the park)

Union

Our first stop is the Mining Camp of Union. The first ore in the region was discovered here in 1863. There’s only a few remnants of the town left; but there’s a path with 22 information boards highlighting what was once a busy town.

Next we head down the hill to Berlin. Along the way we get an incredible view southwest of the valley between the Shoshone Mountain Range we’re on, and the Paradise Range we had to cross to get to the park.

Berlin

The route to the campground goes through the town, so we did get a sneak peak yesterday. But, now we can leisurely walk all 3 paths through town exploring the many buildings and artifacts on display.

Unlike Union, this town is very well preserved. In addition to the guide, the 49 information boards provide an incredible history of this turn of the century mining town, as well as a feel for what it was like for the 200-250 people living here when the town was thriving between 1898 and 1907.

The Berlin Mill

By far the largest building in town, this steam powered mill processed and extracted gold, silver, copper, and other minerals from the ore brought out of the mine. Built around 1900 and renovated in 1905, it operated almost continuously until 1907. It was then re-opened briefly in 1909 only to be closed again less than a year later. In all, this mine made about $849,000. A pretty good haul for the early 1900’s.

Fossil House

After another very peaceful nights sleep, we’ll intend to spend the morning learning about the Ichthyosaur portion of the park.

But first, we need to make sure camp is packed up and we’re ready to pull out by the 11 am checkout. We also need to get on the road, and over the mountain before the bad weather starts rolling in.

Once we’re ready to go, we head out on foot, following the 0.4 mile trail from the campground to the fossil house, only to find our friendly ranger ready to lead the tour.

There are several fossils of a prehistoric marine reptile, known as Ichthyosaurs (ICK-thee-o-sors) located here. Definitely not what I was expecting to find at 7,000 feet; but some of the largest specimens known to man were actually discovered here. The largest of which is depicted (to scale) as a mural on the wall outside the fossil house.

Originally found in 1928, excavation in this area began in 1954 and continued through the 1960’s with a total of about 40 ichthyosaurs being unearthed.

Ranging in size from two to over fifty feet in length, these creatures are unlike any other known reptile and are the most highly specialized to have ever lived on earth. They resemble; but are not related to modern day whales and dolphins, had jaws like an alligator, and lived about the same time as the dinosaurs.

During the tour, we learn that when the animals perished, this area was actually 200-300 feet below sea level. They’re not sure why there are so many ichthyosaurs in this valley. A few of the theories are that it was a hunting or breading ground that they returned to each year and:

• There was an underwater rock slide trapping them
• They died from food poisoning due to a red tide
• They suffocated from breathing in toxic gasses

I’m not sure we’ll ever know; but they believe the excavation site (which the fossil house covers) is actually many layers deep with the remains of these creatures.

They stopped digging after uncovering 9 specimens in this one spot. Since they’d achieved their academic goals, they decided to stop and preserve the site for future generations. As a member of those future generations, Thank you! Seeing an actual dig site, with exposed and identified fossils, in their natural surroundings is a unique and enlightening experience.

After the tour we head back down the trail to the campground, hop in the truck, and we’re off to… Lahontan State Recreation Area & surrounding areas.