Glacier NP – Apgar to North Fork

This part of our trip focuses on the west side of Glacier National Park accessible without traveling Going-to-the-Sun Road.

Apgar Village

We begin our explorations in Apgar Village on a chilly, overcast day after spending the morning on Going-to-the-Sun-Road. After having a surprisingly good lunch (and Huckleberry cobbler for desert – YUM) at Eddies Cafe & Mercantile, we take a walk around the village and then down to the lake between rain showers.

On the way back to the truck we stop by the Nature Center to get a look at the exhibits. We were hoping to do one of the hikes here, but decide that walking through the cold rain is not in our best interest.

The building looks very welcoming on this chilly rainy day. Makes you realized how inviting one of these cabins may have looked 100 years ago.

Apgar Bridge

Just past Apgar Village on the way to Fish Creek is the Apgar Bridge, spanning Lower McDonald Creek. Built in 1920, this bridge is a popular spot for fishing.

Fish Creek

Located on the southwest side of Lake McDonald, this area consists primarily of the Fish Creek campground and a few hiking trails. We opted to head down the Rocky Point Trail.

Rocky Point Trail

This short trail takes us across Fish Creek, along the lake, then up to a Rocky Point above Lake McDonald.

Rocky Point

As we reach the point, we realize what makes this trail so popular. It’s the only place in the park we’ve found that provides a view of Lake McDonald from above.

Views On The Way Back

On the way back, we decide to turn off the main trail and head down to the beach just north of Fish Creek Campground. We then follow the path along the lake to the old boat house, and walk through the campground before rejoining the main trial.

Camas Entrance Station Overlook

Just across from the Camas Entrance Station is an overlook providing a good view over Fish Creek to Lake McDonald and beyond. It’s also a great spot to get a cell signal.

North Fork

This is another area of the park that requires timed entry and the road to get there is long, with alternating sections of dirt and payment. However, the views over Glacier National Park are quite spectacular. Unfortunately photos don’t do it justice, and you risk getting caked in dust to take them.

We stopped to take pictures on the bridge over the North Fork Flathead River, where the dust was significantly reduced.

Polebridge, MT

This extremely small town is known for the Polebridge Merchantile bakery items. All my research before coming here included a recommendation to stop here for one of their freshly baked items, with a high recommendation for the Huckleberry Bear Claw. So, we do indeed stop and get one to take into the park with us.

Huckleberries are small blue/purple berries that taste like a sweet blueberry. They grow locally and are a favorite food of grizzly bears prior to hibernation.

Incidentally, Polebridge received it’s name from the 1913 pole bridge the settlers built across the Flathead River. The bridge only lasted one season and was replaced in 1916 with permanent structure.

North Fork Flathead River Bridge

Just before reaching the entrance station there are parking lots beside the river for people to leave vehicles over 21 feet long and trailers, as neither are allowed in this section of the park. But, it also provides river access for anglers and other water sport enthusiasts.

Protected in 1976 under the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, the North Fork of the Flathead River is one of the most untouched rivers in the lower 48 states.

Polebridge Entrance Station

It’s here we learn from the information boards that they limit the number of entries to this area and intentionally leave the roads “rough and unpaved to help preserve the remote, wild character”.

Road to Kintla Lake

After passing through the entrance station, we decide to head directly to Kintla lake; which is our furthest destination for the day. As advertised, the roads are extremely narrow and not in very good condition. We also come across several one lane bridges. Luckily it’s early morning and we don’t run into too many people coming the other way.

Kintla Lake

As we reach Kintla Lake, we’re very glad we decided to come here first as we get one of the few parking spaces allotted for day use visitors. We grab our bear claw and head down to the lake to take in the view while having our snack. And on the way, a couple of campers catch sight of our snack and begin talking about how good they are, and wishing they’d taken the drive into town to get one of their own.

The lake is incredibly beautiful, and yes, the bear claw is as good as advertised. What’s not to love about fresh berries surrounded by a soft, slightly sweet pastry.

Kintla Ranger Station

After finishing our snack we head out on foot across Kintla Creek to the Historic Ranger Station. Built in 1901 by the Butte Oil Company for it’s employees, this cabin was then repurposed as a ranger station after the oil venture failed. It’s thought to be the oldest operational building in Glacier National Park.

Next, we head up the trail on the west side of the lake to get some different views.

There are so few people here, and the wind is so calm, the lake surface is very reflective. The water is also exceedingly clear allowing for an incredible view of the rock bottom.

Road to Bowman Lake

As we leave, we pass a lot of incoming traffic. For most of them we feel really badly, as it’s a long drive and there’s nowhere for them to park at the lake. For others, who are traveling way too fast, don’t know the rules for using the turnouts, and nearly cause multiple accidents… you get what you deserve.

Bowman Lake

As we reach Bowman Lake, we quickly realize this is the more popular of the lakes. But looking at it, we believe it’s mostly due to proximity and the availability of parking vs beauty.

We don’t stay here very long, as in our opinion it can’t compare to Kintla Lake’s serenity. Taken from right on the shoreline of the lake, what you don’t see in the picture above is all the noisy people crowding the beach. We’re also getting hungry, as it’s now late afternoon and we burned off the energy from our bear claw a long time ago.

Home Ranch Bottoms

On the way home, we stop at Home Ranch Bottoms for “linner”. We’d seen several small roadside signs for it all the way up the road to Polebridge, and it appeared to be one of those local hole in the wall places that serves fantastic food. Luckily our intuition didn’t lead us wrong, as all the food is homemade and made to order. It’s very good and the service is incredible.

Next stop… Exploring around Whitefish, MT