Glacier NP – Going-to-the-Sun Road (East Side)

Welcome to the first of a five part Glacier National Park series.

Located in northeast Montana, Glacier National Park is one of the most visited parks in the National Park System. But, this is not one of those parks that you just decide to tour as you go by. You have to make an effort to come here, and oh boy is it worth it.

Silver Staircase Falls

On the way to Saint Mary (Our first stop in Glacier) we decide to have lunch at Silver Staircase Falls. This beautiful 40 foot drop staircase waterfall is an easy stop along the road and well worth it.

It also provides a great view down the road toward the southern most point of Glacier National Park.

Blackfoot Highway Historical Marker

The next place we stop along this route is the Blackfoot Highway Historical Marker. It’s just a pullout on the side of the road; but there are wonderful views, and a sign containing the history of the highway.

Initial View into East Glacier National Park

As we near Saint Mary, we turn a bend in the road and suddenly the east side of Glacier National Park is before us.

Blackfeet Indian Memorial

Just outside of Saint Mary, we find the Blackfeet Indian Memorial. This incredible place provides:

• a history of the Blackfeet Tribe
• gives a little insight into how the Blackfeet lived
• provides information on the 2006 Red Eagle fire (burnt trees still visible in the photo above)
• explains how the area became known as Saint Mary
• provides a visual map naming the surrounding mountains

Saint Mary Campground

Once we arrive in Saint Mary, we set up camp in the Saint Mary Campground located just inside the east entrance of Going-to-the-Sun Road. Then we head out to walk the campgrounds three loops to stretch our legs and take in the landscape.

Over the next few days we are inundated with rain. So much so, that the campground is extremely empty. Our guess is that given the forecast, people decided not to come. We also see a lot of campers leaving early (especially the one’s in tents).

We just hunkered down while it rained and went for short walks during the breaks.

Here are some pictures of the same area in different weather taken over the next several days.

Going-to-the-Sun Road (East Side)

This section of Going-to-the-Sun road focuses on Saint Mary to Logan Pass. Most of our stops are just for pictures; but in a few places we explore a little bit or even go for a hike. We travel this road many times while here, so the rest of this blog will be laid out from east to west regardless of when we actually visit. As a result, you’ll see pictures from all directions, at different times of the day, and in different weather conditions.

Beaver Pond Loop & Historic 1913 Ranger Station

Beaver Pond Loop begins or ends at the historic 1913 Ranger Station, and skirts the south side of Saint Mary Lake. We decide to head up the lake portion of the trail first which provides some really nice views.

As we get to the loop turnoff, we realize the trail is a little less traveled than we had anticipated. In fact, it’s quite overgrown.

So, we turn back the way we came and head back down the trail. On the way we see a few animals, wildflowers, a lot of huckleberry bushes (a favorite food for bears), and several patches of thimbleberries.

As we near the bottom, we decide to take an offshoot to the Lake Mary shoreline.

Then we continue past the parking lot to visit the historic Ranger Station at the other end of the loop.

This station was in use until the 1930’s and then converted to ranger housing until ~1960’s.

St. Mary Visitor Center

A quick one mile walk from the campground takes us to the St. Mary Visitor Center. Along the way we cross the Saint Mary River.

Once we reach the visitor center we find a few telescopes set up outside to show the sun spots and sun flares currently happening on/around the sun. Neither was a good as what we saw in Twin Falls; but still worth viewing.

Next we head into the visitor center to look around and view the short movie, which was interesting; but definitely not as good as others we’ve seen.

Two Dog Flats

Where the prairie meets the mountains. This is one of the best places to view wildlife early in the morning.

Golden Staircase

Offering scenic views of Saint Mary Lake and the surrounding mountains, this pullout is a great place to stop any time of day. The stop also has one of the historic early 20th century retaining walls built entirely with native stone.

Panorama from Golden Staircase Overlook

Wild Goose Island Viewpoint

This tiny island only rises 14 feet above the surface of Saint Mary Lake. It’s barely visible in the picture below due to the abundance of vegetation at the overlook.

The Narrows Pullout

Just up the road there’s a pullout that gives a great view back toward The Narrows. Which is the narrow channel between Golden Staircase and Silver Dollar Beach on Lake Saint Mary.

Goat Mountain Pullout

This large pullout at the base of Goat Mountain showcases another historic retaining wall. We find many people here looking up at the rock wall with binoculars, trying to spot wildlife. However, we find the views of the mountains across the lake are pretty spectacular.

Sun Point

At this stop we decide to park and hike down to Sun Point and then Baring Falls.

Sun Point Nature Trail

As we reach Sun Point the wind picks up, and it’s difficult to stand on this rocky point. But the view is definitely worth a little windburn.

As we’re sheltering from the wind behind some rocks on the east side of sun point, we notice the different colors at the shoreline below, as well as the multi-colored layers in the rock wall to our left.

Baring Falls Trail

Next we follow the shoreline trail west to baring falls. Along the way, we see some beautiful views and catch sight of one of the Lake Mary boat tours.

Baring Falls

As we cross the pedestrian bridge approaching Baring Falls, we see a set of rapids and follow them around to the falls.

Per our usual, if you want to experience standing at the base of Baring Falls, follow this link to our YouTube Channel.

Sunrift Gorge

There is a short trail here, but we opt for a picture only and then move on.

St. Mary Falls & Virginia Falls Trail

St. Mary Falls Trailhead Parking Lot

Arriving at this very small parking lot just after dawn (this is a common theme at Glacier NP) we’re able to secure a spot.

After having a quick breakfast in the truck, we head down the trail and get some incredible sunrise views as well as see a very acrobatic squirrel having his breakfast.

Saint Mary Falls

The first waterfall we reach along the trail is Saint Mary Falls. We’ll pass by again on the way back to the trailhead, so we get pictures in different lighting during the same day. The pictures below are all sunrise on the left and mid morning on the right. No matter the lighting, this three tiered, 35 foot drop waterfall is worth the hike.

View of lower falls from under the bridge.

View of upper two tiers. Here’s the link to experience the falls.

View from the trail bridge and just above it.

Next, we head up the trail toward Virginia Falls.

Along the way we several additional falls along Virginia Creek.

Virginia Creek Falls #1

Virginia Creek Falls #2

Virginia Creek Falls #3

Virginia Creek Falls #4

Virginia Falls

At the top of the trail, we finally reach the Virginia Falls we’ve come to see. And being this close to the 50 foot drop has us standing in the cool spray of water coming off the fall. Here’s the link for you to experience standing at the falls for yourself.

And as we descend, we see a side trail leading to a bridge that gives a good view of Virginia Falls from the Creek. However, this view definitely hides some of the spectacular middle tiers.

Views on the way back

What an incredible hike!

Dusty Star Mountain Pullout

Jackson Glacier Overlook

This large pullout has views, a trailhead, information boards, and a shuttle stop.

Siyeh Bend

This sharp turn in the road crosses Siyeh Creek and provides excellent views into the valley both directions. It is also home to the Siyeh Pass Trailhead giving access to both the Siyeh Pass & Pigeon Pass Trails; which are both long, difficult hikes leading to areas we access via other trails. Parking here is difficult; but there is a shuttle stop for those who have to park elsewhere.

Heavy Runner Mountain

This prominent peak stands ~8k feet and is a focal point when traveling east from Logan Pass.

East Tunnel

This tunnel is only 408 feet long. But, per the National Park Service, it was one of the most difficult challenges when constructing Going-to-the-Sun Road as they had to carve their way through Pigeon Pass Mountain.

Lunch Creek Pullout

This scenic pullout along the road offers a view of Lunch Creek and the valley beyond. There’s a short path leading up the creek on one side of the road, and an observation deck close to the shuttle stop on the other side.

Big Drift

Clear of snow today, this area of the road is known as the Big Drift. It’s an area along the road where a large amount of winter snow accumulates to depths up to 80 feet.

Logan Pass

Highline Trail

We only walk part of the way down this trail for the views that can only be seen from high on the mountainside.

The latest reviews say that in order to get a parking spot at the Logan Pass Visitors Center you either have to arrive before 6:15am or get very lucky while driving in circles around the lot throughout the day. We decide to get up at 5am one morning and make the drive up the mountain to secure a spot prior to doing the Hidden Lake Trail. We arrive about 5:40 and the parking lot is already 2/3 full, and it’s completely full by 6:14 am.

Of course the morning we choose is extremely foggy/cloudy. We have no idea if it is fog or clouds, given this is the highest point on the Going-to-the-Sun Road.

Hidden Lake Trail

Given the fog/clouds this morning, below we have photos taken as we head up in the early morning (left); and photos with similar views, at roughly the same spots taken during the late morning on the way down (right). It’s easy to see how much you can miss if you only have a short time in the park.

Wildflowers close to the beginning of trail

Waterfall below Clements Mountain

Bear Hat Mountain

Hidden Lake Overlook

At the top of the trail, we find a spot at the Hidden Lake Overlook and wait for the sky to clear revealing Hidden Lake. And once its does… it’s spectacular!

Wildlife

Of course while we wait, we see Big Horn Sheep, Hoary Marmots, and the other reason to come here… Mountain Goats, including a group of four adults and three kids. We spend quite a while finding and watching the goats navigate the rock ledges high above us. Keep in mind these pictures are taken either from far away, through the fog/clouds, or both.

Views coming down the trail

Once Hidden Lake reveals itself, and our necks are so sore from looking up we can’t watch the goats anymore, we make our way back down the trail.

Looking southeast from beside Clements Mountain.

Hidden Lake Trail (second time)

After speaking with several people over the last few weeks, we determine that the best time to see the mountain goats this time of year is between 4 and 6 pm. So, on our last night in the park we head up to Logan Pass with a picnic dinner. Our intention is to eat it at the Hidden Lake Overlook, hoping we get the opportunity to see a mountain goat up close.

Mountain Goats

In fact, we get to see two, one at Hidden Lake Overlook who lets us get several looks and a video (link here), and one hidden in the trees along the trail at the continental divide.

On the way down we stop to take in the view NE from just past the Continental Divide.

Visitor Center Parking Lot

Just before sunset we take a few pictures of our surroundings.

Timeline wise, we explore Many Glacier, then Two Medicine before heading to the west side of the park; but to keep the Going-to-the-Sun Road blogs together we’ll be publishing out of order.

Next Stop… Glacier NP – Going-to-the-Sun Road (West)